Eating London

Three weeks in the capital is enough to learn that Old English Fayre has greatly improved. I still wouldn't say though that it has reached the standards of Paris - a bit biased here. In general, the UK's capital city had a wider variety to offer, more creative options and of course ethical cuisine. I never realised they were big fans of organic and free trade. However, apart from roasts, fish and chips and curry, it remains a jack of all trades, master at none situation. French cuisine, remains classic and simple, many times boring, but always perfected. I do admire the british avant garde approach and the great range of choice and flavor, embracing all influences.

Here's a run down of the places we've tried and tested. From the finest kitchens to gourmet fast food.

Traditional english breakfast. This is the best meal the brits can offer. A hearty start to the day made of eggs, sausages, grilled ham, tomatoes, mushrooms, beans and hashbrowns, washed down with very black tea. A hearty heart attack meal... But worth every bit of cholesterol in it! My friend, Stephanie as well, and I discovered a small, hole in the wall diner: Breadline Cafe. We joined the likes of old englishmen in tweeds reading the newspaper, workers in bright yellow vests, their construction helmets on the seat beside them and the business man on the run. The lady hands over your change saying "Thanks luv!" So british!

For some reason, as soon as I entered the country, an obsession with fishcakes came over me. I think I've had it three times. Or two, counting one of them as crab cakes. The best was in the piazza café with smoked haddock and smoked salmon served with an orange and beetroot salad. Crab cakes at Electric on Portobello road were good but sans plus. I also had it for lunch at Roast in the Bourough market. It was fresh and full of flavor, but jealousy overcame my taste buds as I tried everyone else's excellent dishes.

Some of our favorite buddies from Paris came over for the weekend. Saturday was a fabulous 'fooding' day. One of my other favorite foodies, le grand chef Aaron, chose to go to Roast. Why oh why did I order fishcake! Stacey's fish and chips were perfectly crisp and the fish so fresh it was flakey and creamy! Served in newspaper of course. Aaron had a lovely porkbelly, crispy like lechon kawali in a somewhat adobo like sauce. It was excellent! Victor, Jong and Stephanie's dishes were great too. Sausage and mash, Roast chicken and beef sautéed in girolle mushrooms. I would say this was a good example of modern british cuisine. Cleaned up with excellent produce! The place was lovely and bright, large windows overlooking the market. I also thouroughly enjoyed the crisp chablis.

The market itself was gorgeous. French open markets have just as excellent produce however the brits have a knack for presenting things nicely. Black boards chalked up with today's specials, lots of crganic products, quirky signs, friendly vendors and things from all over the world.

Some of Burrow Market's lovely stalls and fresh produce:

Victor and I tested Gordon Ramsay's modern resto, Maze. His concept is small tapas sized plates to mix and match yourself. We took the seven course tasting menu. There were so many choices, we thought that this would be offering his specialties. £52.50 per person, for London this is not too bad.

We swapped the chilled English pea soup and parmesan parfait for the Foie gras. Probably a mistake. A terrine de foie gras with york ham (like christmas majestic ham) and a baby onion and pickled chutney on the side. Maybe I've learned to be a purist after living four years in France, but this was absolutely awful. The ham and pickled chutney completely over powered the foie gras. It was quite a waste. The foie gras seemed pasty with no flavor and to top it all off... I hate pickles.

The rest of the menu was excellent though. My personal favorites were the beetroot, the shin of veal and risotto, the mullet and the pork belly. I'm not a big dessert fan but I truly enjoyed the lemon bavarois with saffron granité. That saffron bit was ingenious! Here's the menu:

~ mullet~veal & risotto~pork belly~beetroots~

~Marinated beetroot, sairass cheese, pine nut and cabernet sauvignon dressing~
~Foie Gras en terrine with york ham and cutney~
~Braised shin of veal with white onion risotto~
~Cornish red mullet with candied aubergine and chorizo spiced piperade~
~Roast rack of lamb with braised shoulder and four onions~
~Braised suffolk pork belly with spiced lentils, confit baby leek and smoked paprika salt~
~Buttermilk & lemon bavarois with saffron granité, marinated white peaches and grappa jelly~
~Bitter chocolate and hazelnut parfait with salted caramel jelly and milk mousse~

One of the best things about london is the number of yummy fast food chain joints they have. Wagamama is an excellent and cheap asian noodle house. Canteen style where we share large picnic tables. The duck gyoza with hoisin sauce is great as well as their asian inspired salads.

Léon, Prêt à Manger and Eat have a good range of healthy fast food. Wholewheat sandwiches, salads, organic produce etc at reasonable prices. However, one of the best values for money and also on of the yummiest meals I had was at some little vegan thai restaurant, run by chinese ladies. £6 and you have an all you can eat tofu buffet. Tofu in satay, in green curry, with black mushrooms, rice etc. And of course this lovely fried seaweed! Excellent!

Other places we ate in was Belgo, a surprisingly good restaurant for reasonable prices. Don't be scared by the whole giant industrial feel of the place. It's actually quite yum. The Kensington rooftop gardens resto was alright. The view was nice despite the horrid weather. The food just ok. Oh and of course the Whole Foods in Kensington was amazing. If only I had three stomachs to eat all the lovely organic and healthy looking food there! I loved their brown rice sushi!

All in all I'd say London would not be the capital of cuisine but rates high in innovation, creativity and packaging. With so much variety, you can always find something to your taste. Just check out the dressings aisle in Tesco... Honey mustard, caesar with asiago, thai peanut, italien, french, blue cheese... In France? Vinaigrette, vinaigrette, vinaigrette.