mardi 15 janvier 2008

Apicius - De re coquinaria

Who is Apicius? A contempory of Sylla, in the first century of our time whose name became associated with the love for food, to the extent of gluttony. The name Apicius was passed on by generation to two other men the most famous of whom is Marcus Gavius Apicius. He was the chef of the first empereur of Rome, Auguste and his successor Tibère. He opened a school of "gourmandise" and his name is synomymous with the first written work on cuisine.His love of food, of the gourmet arts caused him his fortune, and as if to protect him from the torment of a life with no pleasure... he poisoned himself.

Funny how his middle name - Gavius- is probably the root for the french word se gaver or gaver which originally means to forcibly stuff ducks or geese for foie gras and has been used as to stuff one's self. However, this slang phrase, je me suis gavé... means I let myself go completely and enjoyed life, and the moment to the fullest. I stuffed myself with life. Last night, with my husband and my mother, and thanks to our dear friend Aaron who got our reservations... nous nous sommes bien gavés. The fabulous restaurant: Apicius at 20 rue d'Artois in Paris... This was a moment where I had a food orgasm right there and then.



The beautiful entrance, the elegant staff and setting, the lovely coupe of Deutz champagne, it started out nice. Then a little mise en bouche. Oeuf de poule, soft boiled egg with shrimp and mushrooms... mmm.



Then the entrées came. A little cake of potatoes and chives topped with oscietra caviar. A declinaison of white truffles in two parts: A tartare de thon with shaved fresh white truffles and a personal favorite: compote de cèpes avec un sabayon de truffe blanche. The scent of white truffle intoxicated me. Creeped into my skin. I can still smell it. The foie gras poelé aux radis noirs.... It melted in my mouth as the world melted around me.

For the main courses, my mother had a grilled st. pierre with a pasta risotto style à la crème d'anchois. Delicate and excellent. Victor had a filet de boeuf sur un lit de queu de veau (ox tail) with a red wine reduction sauce. I never knew meat melted that way. I had a rich paté de sanglier (wild boar) in a puff pastry cup... a truffle sauce. A good bottle of cahor, 1996. I can't describe the sensation of a heady meal and a strong wine. We finished with a chocolate soufflé.

I could barely walk to the taxi.

Bravo Chef Jean Pierre Vigato!

1 commentaire:

Anonyme a dit…

Hello, I've been reading your blog even from the multiply site. You don't know me. I'm from Negros Occidental. Bacolod. I enjoy your pics specially those with kc around. It looks surreal. I understand why you want your blog to be all about food, you want some privacy. I do wish you'd post bits and pieces of your private thoughts and feelings though. It gives your blog a "personal" touch but of course, I'd still check your site even if you don't. Just post more pics of your travel. I still have to do some traveling myself. All the luck to you and your hubby.